Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Simple, a V6 at the Bog in the Poudre Canyon, was a climb that felt within my capabilities two years or so ago. Fooling around on the Simple boulder after a day at the Bog, I'd always planned to come back fresh for the send.
John and I carefully crossed the Poudre, which was doable, yet still slightly precarious. I b-lined it towards the Simple boulder, rehearsed the moves, and quickly fired my project, instantaneously reminding me of why I enjoy climbing so much. My last project, sent last fall, was Powerglide up at Rotary Park, Horsetooth Reservoir. Accomplishing a new climb is always an invigorating feeling.
The following weekend, I made the walk up to Emerald Lake with my good friend John, and a new friend Trisha. Meeting Melissa at the Kine boulder and her project, the Kine, John and Trisha quickly began working the moves on the Girlfriend Problem while Melissa and I played around on the Kine.
A couple of summers ago, I made my introduction to climbing in the Park at the Kine boulder with David and Ashley Lloyd. While I dispatched the Kine on my first day climbing in the Park, and proceeded to work on Mr. Wimpy for several return visits, it felt nice to be able to compare my recent send (and efforts on Mr. Wimpy) to the previous visits.
I am intending on returning to the Park tomorrow to get yet another video of me on Mr. Wimpy while Melissa sends her project, The Kine. Stoked.
Friday, July 2, 2010
It's been a pinner life for me lately. Love, love lost. Strength, shoulder cuff tear, strength lost. Working too much and making too little money. Life's just getting in the way and I can't get around it currently! Argh.
On a positive note, all this stress has renewed my psyche to get out and crush. I'm once again working Moon Arete, hoping for success this upcoming Fall. I will continue to document my climbing this summer, hope you'll stick in with me for all the good times to come!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
The 14th annual Neptune Mountaineering Horsetooth Hang climbing festival is scheduled for October 3rd and will be the culmination of a years worth of work from the local non-profit group The Northern Colorado Climber’s Coalition. Having worked closely with
With three weekend volunteer trail days leading up to the second largest Access Fund Adopt A Crag event, the NC3 and Larimer County are looking forward to presenting a new and improved trail system at Rotary Park, while people of all ages enjoy a day outdoors on the world famous sandstone boulders.
Keeping the mission of the NC3 at the heart of the 2009 Horsetooth Hang’s festivities and competition—promoting and preserving climbing in
After a day of climbing, cleaning, and community involvement, the NC3 will be hosting an after party at Hodi’s Halfnote, with free beer donated from New Belgium Brewing, pizza from Uncle’s Pizzeria, a mountain of prizes to raffle off to climbers and volunteers, and a slideshow presented by friends of Craig Luebben, celebrating his life.
In the wake of the recent, tragic loss of Craig Luebben,
The three days of volunteer work leading up to the Horsetooth Hang will be Saturday the 12th, 19th and 26th in September.
For more information or to sign up as a volunteer or climber for the Horsetooth Hang, please visit www.horsetoothhang.net.
To volunteer for trail work or donate to the Craig Luebben Memorial Fund, please contact Cameron Cross at firstname.lastname@example.org.
For more information on the NC3 visit www.nococlimbing.org.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
speed, I've recently found a new musician worthy of mention who made me wish that it would rain. Now that everything's turning green I'm starting to question my wishes. Oh, well.
It has still been a spring to remember, as far as my climbing has been going. I sent my first V8, Powerglide, only after a crazy strong Czech climber flashed it in-front of me. Now, I'm not saying I wanted to rip my heart out, but it did teach me a lot about humility. Still, my heart was singing when I sent, even though I knew I was just chasing a grade.
That day, I watched Rasto flash Powerglide (V8), Talent Scout Roof (V6-7), Cornerlock (v4-5), Mental Block Standard (V4), and Pinch Overhang (V5). He did THC (Tiny Heinous Crimps - V10) on his second attempt. The day previous, he apparently sent Cheathook (V8) and Left Eliminator (V5). I managed to grab some pictures of him on his send of Moon Arete (V10) and Mammen Traverse (V9). Needless to say Rasto was incredible to watch.
cleanest lines I've climbed in the Poudre (which isn't saying much . . . I guess) is Scarface. I sent this problem last year and was glad to get a repeat last time I was up with Alexis, who is extremely close to holding the sloper (he doesn't like the crimp either). I can't wait to get out again . . . as soon as work is done. Simple, Mr. Harry, Tilt . . . you're next.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
It's Spring! The calls of birds are becoming more colorful as the wildlife is starting to emerge from our Winter, though I still prefer to refer to it as snow-Fall. The bees are out, prepared to pollinate. The bunnies are out, preparing to do . . . well, what bunnies do best. Life is grand during Spring and it truly, in my opinion, optimizes change.
Last evening, the Larimer County Parks and Open Lands held a meeting in conjunction with the NC3 and local climbers concerning Rotary Park. I've regurgitated enough information concerning this that I feel no need to be redundant. Needless to say, progress is being made, our concerns are being heard, and Phase 1 of work at Rotary to guarantee its existence, beauty, and continued climbing area is looking like it will have a significant impact. Change at Rotary is here, and we are ready for it to have a lasting impact.
I guess that's the "broad" change I was talking about. Personally, a lot has been happening in my own life that has brought, and is going to bring about, change. Of course, my nifty new spectacles make me look a little more "with the program" (obviously the lack of tape holding them together helps). That, coupled with a new hair-cut (it's been over a year) should allow me to fit in with the "working class" as I start my new job at the Crown Club--the golf course off of Horsetooth and Lemay--on Friday.
Hopefully I will still have pleanty of time to play, as I have had two project days on "Powerglide" at Rotary and am millimeters away from linking it all up for the beautiful send. I currently feel like I'm floating on Cloud 9 and, while I'm always ready for the substance of my magic carpate to disintigrate at any given moment, I'm thoroughly enjoying the fabric of my feelings today.
Monday, April 6, 2009
The Larimer County Parks and Open Lands has received a grant from Great Outdoors Colorado and is seeking the input of local climbers as to how it would be best allocated at Rotary Park.
In the NC3's general meeting with climber's last week, it was clear that our initial focus at Rotary Park needs to be on the erosion (specifically along the ridge line) and the amount of social trailing that has occurred (around the boulders and down to the beach).
Larimer County Parks and Open Lands will be guiding this discussion, including their summary of the Rotary Trail Improvement Project. They will then be guiding a discussion of climber concerns directly pertaining to the improvement project which will include trail work solutions and signage development associated with the GOCO Grant Project.
It is important that the climbing community is present, to share their input as we are fortunate to have Larimer County looking to us as a source of knowledge. Please do your part to help establish a strong, lasting connection with these important land owners so that Rotary can be enjoyed for generations to come!
Please be at the Fort Collins Senior Center (1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, CO - Drake and Shields) at 6:00 if you're passionate about preserving this historical climbing area!
Here is the official press release from Larimer County.
FROM: Sue Burke, Department of Natural Resources, (970) 679-4566
CONTACT: Mark Caughlan, Horsetooth District Manager, Department of Natural Resources,
DATE: April 1, 2009
SUBJECT: Input from Rock Climbing Community Sought by Larimer County
For Immediate Release:
The Larimer County Department of Natural Resources has scheduled a public meeting April 7, 2009, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Fort Collins Senior Center, 1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, to seek input from the rock climbing community on improvements to the trails and information signs for the Rotary Park area of Horsetooth Reservoir. The Department is implementing the Parks Master Plan which calls for redesigning the trails around the climbing areas at Rotary and providing an informational climbing sign.
Call (970) 498-5600 with questions.
For more information about Larimer County’s parks and open spaces,
go to www.larimer.org/
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Meeting David and Ashley at the Rotund Boulder, I couldn't help but note the magical qualities of Carter Lake. If the weather is rolling into the Front Range, head to Carter and you'll most likely be blessed with a beautiful day. Perhaps my luck has been greater than most, but I have only run into unfavorable weather at Carter once.
Warming up near the finish of David and Ashley's project, The Rotund, Alexis was quick to dispatch an unamed sit start with a licheny top-out. David was the first to attempt The Rotund, much to the dismay of Ashley. "Did you just try to snake the send from me?" She asked bitterly. Of course David had.
In between Ashley and David's attempts, all four of us were playing around on Ponts De Lyon, a sit down start with some fairly asthetic moves. The crux of this problem comes with a dynamic, large movement out right to a deep crimp. Focusing my energy on this problem, I felt smooth everytime I did the lower moves, yet always seemed to overshoot/undershoot/or just plain miss the deep crimp. After a small tick, I fired the problem and felt it had been in a very clean style, dead-pointing into the crimp without loosing any feet.
With Ashley and I happy from our sends, and everyone's fingertips a bit sore, we began to pack to head down to the Big Betty Boulder when the homeowner in the valley decided to come say hello. I had met Jeff and his dog previously and again enjoyed conversing with him. I was very happy to hear that he has never run into any problems with any of the climbers at Biglandia. He is a down-to-earth individual that has a very carefree attitude and it's a pleasure to share our boulders with his backyard peacefully.