Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Long overdue

The past couple of months have been interesting, and thus, this post is long overdue.

Rasto starting Moon Arete

To quickly catch everyone up to speed, I've recently found a new musician worthy of mention who made me wish that it would rain. Now that everything's turning green I'm starting to question my wishes. Oh, well.

Rasto making the grab.

It has still been a spring to remember, as far as my climbing has been going. I sent my first V8, Powerglide, only after a crazy strong Czech climber flashed it in-front of me. Now, I'm not saying I wanted to rip my heart out, but it did teach me a lot about humility. Still, my heart was singing when I sent, even though I knew I was just chasing a grade.

Rasto hits the crimp.

That day, I watched Rasto flash Powerglide (V8), Talent Scout Roof (V6-7), Cornerlock (v4-5), Mental Block Standard (V4), and Pinch Overhang (V5). He did THC (Tiny Heinous Crimps - V10) on his second attempt. The day previous, he apparently sent Cheathook (V8) and Left Eliminator (V5). I managed to grab some pictures of him on his send of Moon Arete (V10) and Mammen Traverse (V9). Needless to say Rasto was incredible to watch.

Sticks the crimp. Spotting face helps.

I have since not been back to Horsetooth with any particular interests, although I am sensing the need to start working Moon and would love to get closer to the Revenge of the Nerds dyno. Rather, whether it has been because of the weather, I've been traveling up into the Poudre Canyon to try and put some rock under my feet at the 420's. The Poudre currently hosts a number of climbs that are A) aesthetically interesting to me and B) are either within my current levels or are hard enough to push me. Plus I love granite.

Post Send Smiles

On my first trip to the Poudre this Spring, I put away two awaited sends; having snagged Perch (V6) last Fall, I had my sights set on Scuba Steve (V7) and the Puffing Stone (V5). Both problems easily fell into both A and B categories; beautiful and just a little more than what I was capable of.

Scuba Steve HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

Alex Manikowski is the first climber, with some crazy, double dyno beta. I'm climbing second, sending standard. And Will Becker is third, sending with the heal hook beta. It was a good crew that day with Paul Nadler "resting" his finger (he was climbing a little!).

Puffing Stone HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

This is me on Puffing Stone. Great moves, but a little hard for the grade (in my opinion). The next time I headed up the canyon, I added Tsunami to my list. While I've heard it's gotten easier since the pinch/gaston on the arete broke, creating a crimp, I felt like it was still quite stout, though probably not the often referred to grade of V7.

Scarface from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

One of the cleanest lines I've climbed in the Poudre (which isn't saying much . . . I guess) is Scarface. I sent this problem last year and was glad to get a repeat last time I was up with Alexis, who is extremely close to holding the sloper (he doesn't like the crimp either). I can't wait to get out again . . . as soon as work is done. Simple, Mr. Harry, Tilt . . . you're next.

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