Thursday, April 9, 2009

Pennies are in the Air

Okay, change in general is in the air. There are several reasons for this; some unique to me and others that affect people on a much broader scope. Let's start big.

It's Spring! The calls of birds are becoming more colorful as the wildlife is starting to emerge from our Winter, though I still prefer to refer to it as snow-Fall. The bees are out, prepared to pollinate. The bunnies are out, preparing to do . . . well, what bunnies do best. Life is grand during Spring and it truly, in my opinion, optimizes change.

Last evening, the Larimer County Parks and Open Lands held a meeting in conjunction with the NC3 and local climbers concerning Rotary Park. I've regurgitated enough information concerning this that I feel no need to be redundant. Needless to say, progress is being made, our concerns are being heard, and Phase 1 of work at Rotary to guarantee its existence, beauty, and continued climbing area is looking like it will have a significant impact. Change at Rotary is here, and we are ready for it to have a lasting impact.

I guess that's the "broad" change I was talking about. Personally, a lot has been happening in my own life that has brought, and is going to bring about, change. Of course, my nifty new spectacles make me look a little more "with the program" (obviously the lack of tape holding them together helps). That, coupled with a new hair-cut (it's been over a year) should allow me to fit in with the "working class" as I start my new job at the Crown Club--the golf course off of Horsetooth and Lemay--on Friday.

Hopefully I will still have pleanty of time to play, as I have had two project days on "Powerglide" at Rotary and am millimeters away from linking it all up for the beautiful send. I currently feel like I'm floating on Cloud 9 and, while I'm always ready for the substance of my magic carpate to disintigrate at any given moment, I'm thoroughly enjoying the fabric of my feelings today.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Rotary Park Trail Improvement Project w/Larimer County Parks and Open Lands

The Larimer County Parks and Open Lands has received a grant from Great Outdoors Colorado and is seeking the input of local climbers as to how it would be best allocated at Rotary Park.

In the NC3's general meeting with climber's last week, it was clear that our initial focus at Rotary Park needs to be on the erosion (specifically along the ridge line) and the amount of social trailing that has occurred (around the boulders and down to the beach).

Larimer County Parks and Open Lands will be guiding this discussion, including their summary of the Rotary Trail Improvement Project. They will then be guiding a discussion of climber concerns directly pertaining to the improvement project which will include trail work solutions and signage development associated with the GOCO Grant Project.

It is important that the climbing community is present, to share their input as we are fortunate to have Larimer County looking to us as a source of knowledge. Please do your part to help establish a strong, lasting connection with these important land owners so that Rotary can be enjoyed for generations to come!

Please be at the Fort Collins Senior Center (1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, CO - Drake and Shields) at 6:00 if you're passionate about preserving this historical climbing area!

Here is the official press release from Larimer County.


FROM: Sue Burke, Department of Natural Resources, (970) 679-4566

CONTACT: Mark Caughlan, Horsetooth District Manager, Department of Natural Resources,
(970) 498-5600

DATE: April 1, 2009

SUBJECT: Input from Rock Climbing Community Sought by Larimer County

For Immediate Release:

The Larimer County Department of Natural Resources has scheduled a public meeting April 7, 2009, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Fort Collins Senior Center, 1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, to seek input from the rock climbing community on improvements to the trails and information signs for the Rotary Park area of Horsetooth Reservoir. The Department is implementing the Parks Master Plan which calls for redesigning the trails around the climbing areas at Rotary and providing an informational climbing sign.

Call (970) 498-5600 with questions.

For more information about Larimer County’s parks and open spaces,
go to

Sunday, April 5, 2009

"It's a Big-Land-Ia, After All"

Sometimes it all comes together, and even when it falls apart, it only appears that way.

Aspiring for a climbing day before the forecasted storm, Ashley and David (who coincidentally had Friday off due to the last clip of snow) were planning on meeting Alexis and I in Eldo. And, once again, the Eldo plans that were, proved not to be.

Sweet New NC3 Membership Shirts

Heading down from Fort Collins, Ashley called to say that the storm looked like it had already settled in behind Boulder and that they were heading for Carter Lake. Another call was in order, due to wind, and the new destination turned out to be Biglandia. Never one to be timid in respect to dirt burglers (if you happen to read this Cam), Alexis and I were game.

Always Smilin'

Meeting David and Ashley at the Rotund Boulder, I couldn't help but note the magical qualities of Carter Lake. If the weather is rolling into the Front Range, head to Carter and you'll most likely be blessed with a beautiful day. Perhaps my luck has been greater than most, but I have only run into unfavorable weather at Carter once.

Ashley working out "The Rotund"

Warming up near the finish of David and Ashley's project, The Rotund, Alexis was quick to dispatch an unamed sit start with a licheny top-out. David was the first to attempt The Rotund, much to the dismay of Ashley. "Did you just try to snake the send from me?" She asked bitterly. Of course David had.

Alexis on top of the unnamed problem.

In between Ashley and David's attempts, all four of us were playing around on Ponts De Lyon, a sit down start with some fairly asthetic moves. The crux of this problem comes with a dynamic, large movement out right to a deep crimp. Focusing my energy on this problem, I felt smooth everytime I did the lower moves, yet always seemed to overshoot/undershoot/or just plain miss the deep crimp. After a small tick, I fired the problem and felt it had been in a very clean style, dead-pointing into the crimp without loosing any feet.

David Getting At It On "The Rotund"

With Ashley and I happy from our sends, and everyone's fingertips a bit sore, we began to pack to head down to the Big Betty Boulder when the homeowner in the valley decided to come say hello. I had met Jeff and his dog previously and again enjoyed conversing with him. I was very happy to hear that he has never run into any problems with any of the climbers at Biglandia. He is a down-to-earth individual that has a very carefree attitude and it's a pleasure to share our boulders with his backyard peacefully.

David on the Slab Problem

Down at the Big Betty Boulder, with the wind picking up, we all warmed down on the fun slab problem and had a good time playing on the traverse. Hiking out, still surrounded by the ominous signs of a storm, we had spent the entire day without a worry of any percipitation and, at one point in time, considered it too warm! Thanks for hosting another beautiful day Carter!

David, ushering in the wind that eventually drove us out.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Roundtable Rotary Discussion

Tonight, the NC3 held a general meeting with the climbing public from Northern Colorado to discuss current issues at Rotary Park. With Larimer County receiving a substantial grant from Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO), the climbing population in Northern Colorado is very fortunate to have a portion of these funds allocated for use at Rotary Park.

Aside from the simple fact that climbers constitute the largest user group at Rotary Park, many climbers have been acutely aware of the developing problems at Rotary Park and, therefore, are seen as valuable sources of information regarding not only problems, but also solutions that will affect the area.

Focusing on a broad list of topics from erosion, social trailing, and vegetation destruction to trash, social group conflicts, and other points of interest, community members contributed valuable insight as to what Rotary Park’s priority problems are. Of the several problems discussed, the priority issues that the climbing public would like to see addressed are erosion and social trailing.

Concerning erosion, two points of interest were brought to mention throughout the evening’s discussion. First, the erosion around the ridge-line has become moderate to severe in many areas, with the area above the Ship’s Prow showing some of the most dominant signs of use. Second, several landing areas that have seen considerable erosion were mentioned, such as Talent Scout, Meditation, Penny Pitch, and Mental Block.

Of the two main focuses of erosion, the community tonight appeared to be in consensus that the current erosion of the ridgeline is the priority. In attempting to bring about a solution to the amount of traffic that this area sees, Mark Willford mentioned the establishment of two separate trails; one for “climber use” and one for “beach access.” With both of these designated trails circumventing the main ridgeline, and the erection of a sturdy fencing (such as the one that can be found at the Piano Ridge Boulders), climbers tonight felt that it would significantly affect the amount of erosion the area is currently undergoing.

The issue of social trailing was also a main concern for those in attendance this evening. With the knowledge that Larimer County intends to have only one beach access trail, the discussion of which trail sees the most beach access arose. Also, social trailing around the boulders was mentioned as a substantial aspect of the social trailing problem.

Having assumed that, should there be only two trail heads leading from the parking lot—in an attempt to deal with erosion—social trailing above the ridgeline would essentially be taken care of. Knowing this, those in attendance tonight sought to solve the problem of social trailing around the boulders and leading to beach access.

It was wonderful watching the climbing community come together tonight, providing us with their valuable input. We are thoroughly looking forward to our continued work with Larimer County and its residence!

If you were unable to be in attendance this evening, please support your climbing community next Tuesday, April 7th at 6:30 at the Fort Collins Senior Center (address below). A summary of the Rotary Park Trail Improvements Meeting (With Larimer County Parks) is provided below. We hope to see you there!

When: Tuesday, April 7th (6:00pm)
What: Rotary Park Trail Improvements Meeting (With Larimer County Parks)
General Agenda: (exact agenda to be posted at a later date)

  • Summary of Rotary Trail Improvement Project
  • Guided Discussion on climber concerns directly pertaining to improvement project (no discussion of user fees, or non-GOCO project related topics)
  • Guided discussion of trail work solutions and signage development associated with GOCO grant project


Fort Collins Senior Center
1200 Raintree Dr
Fort Collins, CO 80526

(970) 221-6644

Thursday, April 2, 2009

The Plastic Abides

With a consistent week of inconsistent weather post last week's snow, the plastic at the gym has been eating away at my hands but causing soreness in my muscles . . . kind of a lose-win situation. In light of this rather unfortunate news, I'm taking the time to put up my HD (oooh . . . aaaahhh . . . but only at :( ) video of Talent Scout Roof at Rotary Park. I'm also going to tell you to come to the NC3's meeting tomorrow to discuss problems and actions that need to be addressed.

Talent Scout Roof HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

This is also a shameless promotion of my new glasses. I've waited close to two months for these and my overzealousness is very well justifyed in my book.

OGA Morel's wooden temple frame. Sick.

I guess for s's and g's, I'll put my vimeo hosting of Kahuna Roof too. Wow, I feel like a woman on Colfax right now.

Kahuna Roof HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

I'm hoping to get out with the Lloyd's on Friday, hopefully I will have more to appease the minimal masses.