It's a Simpe Kine of Life

I've been dealing with a shoulder cuff injury for about the past 6 months. Seeing a physical therapist/chiropractor for this time period has been very helpful, as I have been getting strong once again. Regardless, I have come to terms that I will most likely be needing surgery in the future. Bummer.Still, I have managed to get out a couple of times recently, accomplishing a project I'd not yet returned to in the Poudre, and repeating a classic in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Simple, a V6 at the Bog in the Poudre Canyon, was a climb that felt within my capabilities two years or so ago. Fooling around on the Simple boulder after a day at the Bog, I'd always planned to come back fresh for the send.
John and I carefully crossed the Poudre, which was doable, yet still slightly precarious. I b-lined it towards the Simple boulder, rehearsed the moves, and quickly fired my project, instantaneously reminding me of why I enjoy climbing so much. My last project, sent last fall, was Powerglide up at Rotary Park, Horsetooth Reservoir. Accomplishing a new climb is always an invigorating feeling.

The following weekend, I made the walk up to Emerald Lake with my good friend John, and a new friend Trisha. Meeting Melissa at the Kine boulder and her project, the Kine, John and Trisha quickly began working the moves on the Girlfriend Problem while Melissa and I played around on the Kine.
A couple of summers ago, I made my introduction to climbing in the Park at the Kine boulder with David and Ashley Lloyd. While I dispatched the Kine on my first day climbing in the Park, and proceeded to work on Mr. Wimpy for several return visits, it felt nice to be able to compare my recent send (and efforts on Mr. Wimpy) to the previous visits.

I am intending on returning to the Park tomorrow to get yet another video of me on Mr. Wimpy while Melissa sends her project, The Kine. Stoked.

Pinner

It's been a pinner life for me lately. Love, love lost. Strength, shoulder cuff tear, strength lost. Working too much and making too little money. Life's just getting in the way and I can't get around it currently! Argh.


On a positive note, all this stress has renewed my psyche to get out and crush. I'm once again working Moon Arete, hoping for success this upcoming Fall. I will continue to document my climbing this summer, hope you'll stick in with me for all the good times to come!

2009 Horsetooth Hang - 80's Lycra Revival

The 14^th annual Neptune Mountaineering Horsetooth Hang climbing festival is scheduled for October 3^rd and will be the culmination of a years worth of work from the local non-profit group The Northern Colorado Climber’s Coalition. Having worked closely with Larimer County Parks and Open Lands, headed by Mark Caughlan, a portion of Larimer County’s Great Outdoors Colorado Grant (GOCO) was set aside for trail work at one of Horsetooth Reservoir’s popular destinations, Rotary Park.

With three weekend volunteer trail days leading up to the second largest Access Fund Adopt A Crag event, the NC3 and Larimer County are looking forward to presenting a new and improved trail system at Rotary Park, while people of all ages enjoy a day outdoors on the world famous sandstone boulders.

Keeping the mission of the NC3 at the heart of the 2009 Horsetooth Hang’s festivities and competition—promoting and preserving climbing in Northern Colorado—the NC3 will again host a trash clean-up, which yearly averages in 300 pounds of trash being removed from this beautiful natural area.

After a day of climbing, cleaning, and community involvement, the NC3 will be hosting an after party at Hodi’s Halfnote, with free beer donated from New Belgium Brewing, pizza from Uncle’s Pizzeria, a mountain of prizes to raffle off to climbers and volunteers, and a slideshow presented by friends of Craig Luebben, celebrating his life.

In the wake of the recent, tragic loss of Craig Luebben, Front Range resident, world renound climber, and founder of the Horsetooth Hang, this year’s festival will be dedicated to the memory of this inspiring man who touched countless lives. A silent auction will be held in memory of Craig with proceeds being donated to his 6 year old daughter Giuli.

The three days of volunteer work leading up to the Horsetooth Hang will be Saturday the 12^th, 19^th and 26^th in September.

For more information or to sign up as a volunteer or climber for the Horsetooth Hang, please visit www.horsetoothhang.net.

To volunteer for trail work or donate to the Craig Luebben Memorial Fund, please contact Cameron Cross at horsetoothhang@yahoo.com.

For more information on the NC3 visit www.nococlimbing.org.

Long overdue

The past couple of months have been interesting, and thus, this post is long overdue.

Rasto starting Moon Arete

To quickly catch everyone up to speed, I've recently found a new musician worthy of mention who made me wish that it would rain. Now that everything's turning green I'm starting to question my wishes. Oh, well.

Rasto making the grab.

It has still been a spring to remember, as far as my climbing has been going. I sent my first V8, Powerglide, only after a crazy strong Czech climber flashed it in-front of me. Now, I'm not saying I wanted to rip my heart out, but it did teach me a lot about humility. Still, my heart was singing when I sent, even though I knew I was just chasing a grade.

Rasto hits the crimp.

That day, I watched Rasto flash Powerglide (V8), Talent Scout Roof (V6-7), Cornerlock (v4-5), Mental Block Standard (V4), and Pinch Overhang (V5). He did THC (Tiny Heinous Crimps - V10) on his second attempt. The day previous, he apparently sent Cheathook (V8) and Left Eliminator (V5). I managed to grab some pictures of him on his send of Moon Arete (V10) and Mammen Traverse (V9). Needless to say Rasto was incredible to watch.

Sticks the crimp. Spotting face helps.

I have since not been back to Horsetooth with any particular interests, although I am sensing the need to start working Moon and would love to get closer to the Revenge of the Nerds dyno. Rather, whether it has been because of the weather, I've been traveling up into the Poudre Canyon to try and put some rock under my feet at the 420's. The Poudre currently hosts a number of climbs that are A) aesthetically interesting to me and B) are either within my current levels or are hard enough to push me. Plus I love granite.

Post Send Smiles

On my first trip to the Poudre this Spring, I put away two awaited sends; having snagged Perch (V6) last Fall, I had my sights set on Scuba Steve (V7) and the Puffing Stone (V5). Both problems easily fell into both A and B categories; beautiful and just a little more than what I was capable of.

Scuba Steve HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

Alex Manikowski is the first climber, with some crazy, double dyno beta. I'm climbing second, sending standard. And Will Becker is third, sending with the heal hook beta. It was a good crew that day with Paul Nadler "resting" his finger (he was climbing a little!).

Puffing Stone HD from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

This is me on Puffing Stone. Great moves, but a little hard for the grade (in my opinion). The next time I headed up the canyon, I added Tsunami to my list. While I've heard it's gotten easier since the pinch/gaston on the arete broke, creating a crimp, I felt like it was still quite stout, though probably not the often referred to grade of V7.

Scarface from Richard Newman on Vimeo.

One of the cleanest lines I've climbed in the Poudre (which isn't saying much . . . I guess) is Scarface. I sent this problem last year and was glad to get a repeat last time I was up with Alexis, who is extremely close to holding the sloper (he doesn't like the crimp either). I can't wait to get out again . . . as soon as work is done. Simple, Mr. Harry, Tilt . . . you're next.

Pennies are in the Air

Okay, change in general is in the air. There are several reasons for this; some unique to me and others that affect people on a much broader scope. Let's start big.

It's Spring! The calls of birds are becoming more colorful as the wildlife is starting to emerge from our Winter, though I still prefer to refer to it as snow-Fall. The bees are out, prepared to pollinate. The bunnies are out, preparing to do . . . well, what bunnies do best. Life is grand during Spring and it truly, in my opinion, optimizes change.

Last evening, the Larimer County Parks and Open Lands held a meeting in conjunction with the NC3 and local climbers concerning Rotary Park. I've regurgitated enough information concerning this that I feel no need to be redundant. Needless to say, progress is being made, our concerns are being heard, and Phase 1 of work at Rotary to guarantee its existence, beauty, and continued climbing area is looking like it will have a significant impact. Change at Rotary is here, and we are ready for it to have a lasting impact.

I guess that's the "broad" change I was talking about. Personally, a lot has been happening in my own life that has brought, and is going to bring about, change. Of course, my nifty new spectacles make me look a little more "with the program" (obviously the lack of tape holding them together helps). That, coupled with a new hair-cut (it's been over a year) should allow me to fit in with the "working class" as I start my new job at the Crown Club--the golf course off of Horsetooth and Lemay--on Friday.

Hopefully I will still have pleanty of time to play, as I have had two project days on "Powerglide" at Rotary and am millimeters away from linking it all up for the beautiful send. I currently feel like I'm floating on Cloud 9 and, while I'm always ready for the substance of my magic carpate to disintigrate at any given moment, I'm thoroughly enjoying the fabric of my feelings today.

Rotary Park Trail Improvement Project w/Larimer County Parks and Open Lands

The Larimer County Parks and Open Lands has received a grant from Great Outdoors Colorado and is seeking the input of local climbers as to how it would be best allocated at Rotary Park.

In the NC3's general meeting with climber's last week, it was clear that our initial focus at Rotary Park needs to be on the erosion (specifically along the ridge line) and the amount of social trailing that has occurred (around the boulders and down to the beach).

Larimer County Parks and Open Lands will be guiding this discussion, including their summary of the Rotary Trail Improvement Project. They will then be guiding a discussion of climber concerns directly pertaining to the improvement project which will include trail work solutions and signage development associated with the GOCO Grant Project.

It is important that the climbing community is present, to share their input as we are fortunate to have Larimer County looking to us as a source of knowledge. Please do your part to help establish a strong, lasting connection with these important land owners so that Rotary can be enjoyed for generations to come!

Please be at the Fort Collins Senior Center (1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, CO - Drake and Shields) at 6:00 if you're passionate about preserving this historical climbing area!

Here is the official press release from Larimer County.

NEWS RELEASE

FROM: Sue Burke, Department of Natural Resources, (970) 679-4566

CONTACT: Mark Caughlan, Horsetooth District Manager, Department of Natural Resources,
(970) 498-5600

DATE: April 1, 2009

SUBJECT: Input from Rock Climbing Community Sought by Larimer County


For Immediate Release:

The Larimer County Department of Natural Resources has scheduled a public meeting April 7, 2009, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Fort Collins Senior Center, 1200 Raintree Drive, Fort Collins, to seek input from the rock climbing community on improvements to the trails and information signs for the Rotary Park area of Horsetooth Reservoir. The Department is implementing the Parks Master Plan which calls for redesigning the trails around the climbing areas at Rotary and providing an informational climbing sign.

Call (970) 498-5600 with questions.

For more information about Larimer County’s parks and open spaces,
go to www.larimer.org/naturalresources/park_areas.htm

"It's a Big-Land-Ia, After All"

Sometimes it all comes together, and even when it falls apart, it only appears that way.

Aspiring for a climbing day before the forecasted storm, Ashley and David (who coincidentally had Friday off due to the last clip of snow) were planning on meeting Alexis and I in Eldo. And, once again, the Eldo plans that were, proved not to be.

Sweet New NC3 Membership Shirts

Heading down from Fort Collins, Ashley called to say that the storm looked like it had already settled in behind Boulder and that they were heading for Carter Lake. Another call was in order, due to wind, and the new destination turned out to be Biglandia. Never one to be timid in respect to dirt burglers (if you happen to read this Cam), Alexis and I were game.

Always Smilin'

Meeting David and Ashley at the Rotund Boulder, I couldn't help but note the magical qualities of Carter Lake. If the weather is rolling into the Front Range, head to Carter and you'll most likely be blessed with a beautiful day. Perhaps my luck has been greater than most, but I have only run into unfavorable weather at Carter once.

Ashley working out "The Rotund"

Warming up near the finish of David and Ashley's project, The Rotund, Alexis was quick to dispatch an unamed sit start with a licheny top-out. David was the first to attempt The Rotund, much to the dismay of Ashley. "Did you just try to snake the send from me?" She asked bitterly. Of course David had.

Alexis on top of the unnamed problem.

In between Ashley and David's attempts, all four of us were playing around on Ponts De Lyon, a sit down start with some fairly asthetic moves. The crux of this problem comes with a dynamic, large movement out right to a deep crimp. Focusing my energy on this problem, I felt smooth everytime I did the lower moves, yet always seemed to overshoot/undershoot/or just plain miss the deep crimp. After a small tick, I fired the problem and felt it had been in a very clean style, dead-pointing into the crimp without loosing any feet.

David Getting At It On "The Rotund"

With Ashley and I happy from our sends, and everyone's fingertips a bit sore, we began to pack to head down to the Big Betty Boulder when the homeowner in the valley decided to come say hello. I had met Jeff and his dog previously and again enjoyed conversing with him. I was very happy to hear that he has never run into any problems with any of the climbers at Biglandia. He is a down-to-earth individual that has a very carefree attitude and it's a pleasure to share our boulders with his backyard peacefully.

David on the Slab Problem

Down at the Big Betty Boulder, with the wind picking up, we all warmed down on the fun slab problem and had a good time playing on the traverse. Hiking out, still surrounded by the ominous signs of a storm, we had spent the entire day without a worry of any percipitation and, at one point in time, considered it too warm! Thanks for hosting another beautiful day Carter!

David, ushering in the wind that eventually drove us out.